Illness and Disease

a site for the modern betta enthusiast

dropsy

Dropsy is one of the most deadly diseases plaguing aquarium fish. It is easily diagnosed when full body swelling or “pineconing” of the scales becomes evident. The pinecone effect occurs when fluids in the abdomen expand the body causing the scales to stick outward, resembling a pinecone when viewed from above. While it is slightly more treatable in goldfish it is much more difficult to successfully cure in tropical fish.

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ich

Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) is a contagious parasitic infestation that commonly affects both marine and freshwater fish. The Ich protozoan may be present in the water without you even knowing it. It often only preys on fish that are stressed due to poor water quality or other stressors.

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fin loss & fin rot

The difference between fin loss and fin rot are not always obvious but there is, indeed, a difference. Generally, we distinguish between the two based on its cause.

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flexibacter

Flavobacterium columnare (Flexibacter columnaris)

Flex is a gram-negative rod bacterium that commonly infects aquarium fish. Anabantoids, like Bettas, are especially susceptible. Flex is often mistaken for a fungus because of its cottony appearance but it is indeed a bacteria. Actual, “True Fungus”, is fairly rare among bettas but does occasionally occur on dead tissue. Flavobacterium columnare has several common names such as “Flex”, “Mouth Fungus” and “Cotton Wool Disease.”

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other illnesses

constipation
hyperplasia
popeye
septicemia
skittish bettas
swim bladder disorder
velvet
wounds & physical injury NEW

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related topics

euthanasia

illness overview

If you find your betta is ill there are some important things to do right away. First of all, don't panic. Like us, bettas get sick and like us, they have an immune system that can often fight off minor illnesses. Most betta illnesses are easily treatable. Please do not euthanise your pet just because it appears to be sick. Occasionally, bettas will get themselves into situations that appear dire but really are quite easy to treat.

It's always best to have a variety of common fish medications around the house. Although probably untrue, it seems fish like they wait for the most inopportune time to get sick. [Like Friday night before a long weekend when no fish stores are open]

Brands of medicine differ depending on where in the world you live. I can make some recommendations for U.S. residents but you may need to ask your local fish store for an equivalent if they don't have what I suggest.

A good start to have on hand are

    + A gram-positive bacterial antibiotic [Maracyn by Mardel®]

    + A gram-negative bacterial antibiotic [Maracyn-Two by Mardel®]

    + A wide spectrum antibiotic [Kanacyn by Aquatronics™ (discontinued but many stores still carry it) or Maracyn-Plus by Mardel®]

    + An antiparasitic [RidIch-Plus and CopperSafe®]

    + An antiseptic [Aquarium salt or Melafix]

    + An antifungal [MarOxy by Mardel®]

There are many-many more medications out there and several brand names. I just mentioned a few of the more popular ones above.

Please do not medicate your betta without first properly diagnosing him. Doing so may cause more damage. Many fish medications are quite potent and giving unnecessary medicine can lead to a more serious problem. For more information on the dangers of medicating without proper diagnosis see “The Dangers of Preventative Medicine.”

where to begin

When you notice your fish is ill the first thing you should do is make a note of all the symptoms. Do you notice color loss, bloating, inactivity, ulcers or lesions, redness, bumps, specs, filmy coating or bodily distortions, etc?

Next check all your tank parameters to see if anything is not in the safe or stable range. Check your temperature, ph, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, gh, and kh?

Fix any problems with the water right away. Poor water conditions are the leading cause of fish illness and all the medicine in the world won't help him if he continues to live in bad water. Remember, most of the problems in water have no color, smell or texture. The only way to know is to test.
Next, compare the symptoms with the list of common betta illnesses to determine what the problem is. If it's minor, then the betta can usually heal himself without the use of harsh medications. If you feel it is more severe you may need to medicate. Be sure to follow the instructions on the medicine package carefully. If you are not sure how to diagnose your betta there are fish forums and news groups where people are available pretty much 24 hours a day and they can help you. My favorites are www.bettasplendens.info, where I am a moderator and www.aquamaniacs.net.

When you keep several fish in the same tank and one becomes ill you don't want to medicate the other healthy fish. This could actually weaken their immune systems and lead to additional illnesses. It's always a good idea to keep a spare tank around to use as a hospital tank. It could be something as simple as a 2.5 gallon and a 25-watt heater and air-stone. Bettas don't require air-stones but because many medications deplete the oxygen in the water it will help to make your betta more comfortable by allowing them to surface less frequently for air. When all your fish are healthy you can easily clean out your hospital tank and tuck it away until you need it again.

A healthy betta should be active.

euthanasia

If you suspect your fish is suffering and has little or no chance for survival you may want to consider humane euthanization. Putting your fish down is a difficult decision. Please read our Euthanization page before proceding.